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Glacier Peak from the east


Scramblin_Jones

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I'm looking for info on the Cool / Chocolate glacier route up Glacier Peak. Route is from the Upper Suiattle River valley, up Streamline Ridge that divides the two glaciers, onto the Cool glacier at the top of the "cleaver" and an ascending traverse up the Cool glacier to Disappointment Rock, then up the S ridge to the summit.

 

Any info is welcome, specifically:

 

- What type of crevasse difficulties are we likely to find on the Cool glacier above 8000 ft?

 

- What type of brush bash should we expect on Streamline Ridge?

 

- What type of terrain / vegetation would we encounter on a route to the head of the Suiattle River and across the Honeycomb glacier?

 

- What type of crevasses would we encounter on the Honeycomb glacier?

 

- anyone ever descended the Lightning Creek valley?

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Was on the upper Cool Glacier after approaching from the South in July 2005. Crevasses presented little issue then, although I did go into one up to my hip, so roping up would probably be advisable. Ascending the Chocolate direct would be awesome and has been on my list for a long time, but if you're not there for the vertical stuff just head for either the crater or the Dissapointment peak/summit saddle. The Honeycomb has always looked benign every time I've seen it from a distance, but the valleys east of Glacier looked like classic, jungle-filled holes.

 

Sounds like you know more about the rest of the stuff than most, cool area, enjoy yourself.

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