Squamish: Borderline to Angel's Crest Link-up

[mneagle]

I went to Squamish about 10 days ago with one of the FA's of Borderline and did an interesting link-up with Angels Crest. Borderline has 2 options lower down with the better one being the 11c. The other variation is a lot easier. There is a 5th pitch not in the guidebook that goes up the chimney (bolted; no Big-Bro's needed) and ends after a 10d bolted slab (all well protected). From there go left on a brushy ledge to the end and in one moderate lead gain Angel's Crest low-down, just below the 10a pitch. There were 14 good rock pitches and 3-4 sections of 3rd to 4th class. Near the top we took the 10b/c crack variation to the right that was great and deposited us at the base of the 10a crack 2 pitches from the top. We had a rack to #3 Camalot and had no problems protecting. It's supposed to be the longest route to the top of the Chief that isn't mostly 5.11.

[Drederek]

Mneagle, sounds very cool. Was routefinding as easy as you make it sound? Is the 11c pitch of Borderline as hard as Perry's Lieback (Grand Wall)? I'd love to give that a go!

[Drederek]

MN, sounds like a good time. Was routefinding as straightforward as it sounds? Is the 11c on borderline any more sustained/harder than Perry's Lieback on the Grand Wall? This sounds like an incredible way to start Angels Crest!

[mneagle]

I haven't done Perry's lieback so I can't compare. It's more technical than strenusous. It protects well with small nuts which held several falls from me while trying to work out the sequence. It can easily be aided through if need be. From the top of the 5th pitch of Borderline, there is a fixed rope that helps you get 15 feet up a wet section and then just walk to the end of the dirt ledge. From there it's 1 lead of mid 5th class climbing left and slightly up 'til you join Angel's Crest. It felt pretty straight forward to me.

[Drederek]

Thanks for the beta, Mneagle!