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My bro and I had a few free hours this morning and set out for some zero approach ice climbing around Leavenworth. We ended up at Icicle Buttress and climbed a pretty fun route, starting on the large, steep flow which starts in the same place as the Another Roadside Attraction rock route. We climbed the steep flow and then followed a rightward break for another pitch and a half or so of lower angled (varying between 45*-60*) mixed ground. I would say the route was probably WI 3ish with some class 4 mixed climbing on the upper sections. The steep ice at the start was nice and fat, but after that it was sweet, delaminating verglas with the odd turf stick thrown in. So what did we climb, is this an established route? I can't imagine we were the first to head up it, considering the lack of approach, etc.

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Posted (edited)

It's certainly been climbed before. There have been a lot of ascents around the icicle buttress but little beta was available when we were working on the book...

 

Jason

Edited by Jason_Martin

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