dmuja Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 this time 'o' year, Q: Best place to camp around or close to Ingalls North Peak SR?? Q: Is there snow (at what elevation?) on Stuart routes right now - particularly how is the cascadian coulior? Moderate Class 5 (.6-.7ish) route suggestions?? Q: night/day temps?? Q: *anything else helpful* ("descent" info for example) betawise on these 2 is appreciated.. I haven't done yet so even experienced guestimates are welcome. First visit to this area and seek easy to moderate stuff. Probly going over night though and may do both peaks tnx D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmuja Posted September 30, 2006 Author Share Posted September 30, 2006 f--k, sorry, didnt see the other threads till I posted! Still though, Ill leave the beta request up incase some one wants to adress each Q in particular.. thnx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottgg Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 1. I dont think you can camp at the lake, but there is a really cool place just north of Stuart Pass to camp. 2. Stuart's north and south side are snow free as of this past weekend. Possible itinerary could be to hike in from Teanaway, climb Ingalls then decend to lake Ingalls and camp near the base of the Stuarts west ridge and climb it the next day. Neat area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerm Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 (edited) 1. Both times I did Ingalls I went the non-traditional route and camped on the west side, at Lake Ann and Van Epps Pass (which can be driven to in a 4wd vehicle with reasonable clearance, car based SUVs probably wouldn't want to try though). From the pass, it is a 30-40 minute flat walk to Lake Ann and a nice campsite, then another 45 min - hour up a faint trail to the base of the S ridge. 2. West Ridge of Stuart fits that bill, although most of the climbing is sub-5th. Maybe 3-5 roped 5th class pitches total. The upper North Ridge (bypassing the Gendarme) is 5.7 or easier (mostly easier) and a better route IMO. A approach via Teanaway and Ingalls, then bivy at Goat Pass or base of NW Buttress (for access to water), followed by Upper N Ridge->Cascadian->Longs might work for you. You'll want crampons and an ice axe for the Stuart Glacier though. 3. East Ridge of Ingalls is also fun. Much longer than the South Ridge (which is really only 2 pitches), a few harder moves, and nice exposure. Really only one or two spots with 5.7 moves -- the beginning, and near the end. The rest is 5.easy and 4th class so it is a great route to simul climb. Edited October 9, 2006 by Jerm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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