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A friend and I heard about the fires on the south side, thankfully, before heading over there. We opted, me reluctantly (recalling the crappy descent after wasting myself on Givlers route), for the North Ridge.

We left Seattle at 5pm Sat and entered in by headlamp. Crashed out at the 6900 camp and left in the morning at 6:30. It sucks that it takes so long for the light to come out now. We met three others who had the same idea to go up the N ridge. They had the unfortunate experience of driving to the south side to find this out.

There's plenty of running water up there, bring a coffee filter if you're planning on drinking from the lake. Past the glacier over the lake, it's pretty dry. We did encounter some running water up high, but I remember the silt-strewn water from our Givler adventure and man, you really don't want to drink that water, even with a parched throat.

Route finding can be a real bitch. I brought some wands which helped out a bit for the descent. Basically, if you get into hard crap, turn around and find another way around.

We got up there in five and a half hours. Not fast by any means, a typical party could expect the same time, I suppose. Didn't see anyone else up there. We brought enough wands to wand the snow field. With no rope, I personally wouldn't care to get off course up there, on the big open snowfield.

Brought instep (four-point) crampons and ice axe. Really didn't need either although neither the route nor the weight difference would make me suggest not carrying either. Bring 'em.

You'll twist your ankles plenty so wear light hikers or equivalent.

Have fun!

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