SignoreSnello Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 (edited) Climb: Mt Adams-Adams Glacier Date of Climb: 6/19/2006 Trip Report: The route was very direct. We crossed a couple of crevasses at about 9,900' and then angled right to below the cliff band and the steepest part of the climb. From the cliffs, we headed left and up to 10,900' where the grade lessened significantly. From there it was up to the top, crossing the upper bergschrund on excellent bridges. The snow was hard and consolidated; excellent for crampons. From a distance, it looked icy, but we realized that it had probably rained on the route recently and only glazed it with a veneer of ice. The ice posed no difficulty. We had two rope teams in a running belay through the 1000 feet of steep climbing. Climbing it this way ate up a lot of time as we had to occaisionally gather up the pickets. Descent was via the North Ridge. It was as lousy as people describe it. Loose rock, some snow, and a bit exposed. I would not recommend this as an ascent route - it's not worth the trouble. Times were: 5 hours from TH to camp at 7,600' 8 hours from camp to summit (see my note about the belay above) 3 hours from summit to camp 3 hours from camp to car Gear Notes: We used a second tool and pickets through the steep section which was probably 45 - 50 degrees. A strong party comfortable on steep snow would likely not need them. I'm not that comfortable on steep snow, so the second tool felt very secure. Approach Notes: Directions to Trailhead: Babyshoe Pass was not open, so getting to Killen Creek is a little complicated. We used the following roads: 23 to 21 21 to 56 56 to 5603 5603 to 2329 2329 past Keene's Horse Camp Approach: Snow covered. Approximately 5 miles to camp at 7,600 feet. Just at the toe of the glacier. Water was available from a small stream emerging from the rocks. Edited June 21, 2006 by SignoreSnello Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couloir Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 (edited) Excellent TR--good relevant details. Nice work! Yeah, I know what you mean about the North Ridge. I'm glad I didn't come down it. Edited June 21, 2006 by Couloir Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamessponaugle Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 Thanks for the report; sounds like it was a great climb. What time did you leave camp for the summit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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