[TR] Mt. Hood - South side/Mazama route 5/15/2006

[Davy_D]

Climb: Mt. Hood -South side/Mazama route

 

Date of Climb: 5/15/2006

 

Trip Report:

Started skinning at 8:00 from the timberline parking lot. Top of Palmer chair 8,600ft then up to triangle morain in soft warm snow but really windy. Able to Skin all the way up to the lower portions of the hogsback just below the “shrund.” From there bootpacked in up to calf deep slush to below rock bands then to the chute that defines old mazama route. Rock and ice fall below rock bands to the left of “shrund” as well a wet snow slides. Glad I had helmet but still got beaned in the hands by some pretty good sized chunks of ice. At top of chute at noon and winds howling leaving a chunky wind crust over warm slush. Don’t go all the way up chute as last 5ft are an overhanging cornice onto north face. Top of decent was chunky with spots of deep gooey snow. We were up there too late I think; 10AM would have been better. Went down west crater rim by Castle crags for a change but found it to be heavily sun-cupped and ash covered; bad choice. Take the standard route to hogsback around the East of crater rock next time. Below crater rock snow gooey all the way to parking lot. Final analysis: thought the cold wind would keep the snow good but it just formed a crust on goo! Should have moved the whole trip back 2 to 3 hours.

 

Gear Notes:

Helmet in crater worth it

Avy gear smart due to wet slides

Crampons helped with tele boots

Axe/arrest pole nice but not nessesary.

harness/ropes not needed

 

Approach Notes:

Skied from/to timberline parking lot. Remembered to fill out a permit this time too!

Edited May 19, 2006 by Davy_D