Forecast for late summer conditions?

[RobB]

Thinking of doing an easier route (Disappointment Cleaver or Emmons/Winthrop) later this summer. The reports I've read say low snowpack is making current conditions similar to those normally seen later in the year. So what's the outlook for conditions in August? Would those routes be more likely to be enjoyable and in a safer condition then, or is June this year likely to be better?

[mrefranklin]

Howdy Rob,

After being up there last week, I am definitely of the opinion that the DC route is going to rotten and dangerous well before the end of summer. While being one of the easier routes on the mountain, it does not qualify as one of the safer ones.

Emmonds will have a longer season and probably be safer, but the crevasse negotiation will be VERY circuitous by then. My two cents is that if you want to climb Rainier this season, the earlier the better. If you do decide to climb later in the season, get some beta from the climbing rangers before you go. They may be able to suggest alternatives to the two main sloggers you mention. Late season routes get a lot more dangerous with tons of folks on them - you're probably more likely to get a rock kicked down on your mellon while on DC, than to get injured while following the boot track late season.