oldclimber Posted June 25, 2002 Posted June 25, 2002 Ciimbed Ulrichs on 6/21,22,23/02. Teanaway trailhead snow free and 50% snow to long's pass. 70% snow down to Ingalls creek. Moved down stream to find best log crossing. creek quite high. Camped at 5100 ft. Set alarm for 5:00 am and under way at 5:45. First 800 ft snow free. Then crampons. Took left exit at 7000 ft. over wooded crest into final couloir From here it is 30 to 35 degree snow until the last 500 ft which steepens to 45 degrees to the summit. Watched a party of three pick their way across the ridge from the false summit on the Cascadian couloir route. Talked with them later and they didn't enjoy the traverse. Too much loose snow. We had an uneventful descent and decided to make a loop on sunday and came out over Ingalls pass. A very enjoyable non technical climb of a major peak. The snow is receding faster than I anticipated. If you're planning a south side route on Stuart, I'd try to get up there in the next couple of weeks. Quote
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