Chair Peak -- NE Buttress

[AllenB]

Climbed Chair Peak last weekend (6/9) via the NE Buttress. Snow on the route is largely consolidated. We ascended the couloir right of the ramp that leads to the heather bench. There's a moat that's difficult to negotiate about 75 feet below the first rap station below the notch. We climbed past the moat to the left climbing a short but unproctectable section over class 3/4 rock. There's another moat where snow meets rock immediately below the first rap station that will be increasingly difficult to climb past as the season progresses. Climb early in the day to avoid soft snow. A 60m rope is nice for the last rappel at the couloir.

 

Snow shoes or skis are a good idea for the approach.