Banff Area 20th to 24th

[jmckay]

 

 

Ice from 20th to 24th

Gibraltar Wall: This puppy is in real good shape this year. A lot fewer hanging daggers then most years. 3+ on the right, grade 4 on the left and pushing 5 up the center. You may want to start early as usual the upper section of the climb is sun exposed slab with a thin cover of ice. Started to send small chunks around 2:30.

 

Pretty Nuts (A.K.A. Good Look’in Balls): The ice was colder than a mother-in laws kiss. Been climbed a fair bit. Rap anchors are in as usual. Short grade 4 pitch a touch sporty with the cold conditions but no big deal. Plenty of room on the side of the road to pull over and park.

 

Johnston Canyon: This is one of the best top roping venues in the valley. Big supported pillars that are in good shape. You can easily climb around on the right on easy ice. It will take two ropes to rig these things. Not to much hanging ice but enough that you may want to watch where you’re standing.

 

Selenium (On Sulpher): This climb is in great shape and a solid grade 5 at the moment. The ice is bitter cold. You work for the placements but when you get them you can belay a truck off a single tool. Pro is excellent.

 

Louise Falls: The tourist line on Louise looks easy but the ice is hollow and scary. Pro is marginal and hardly worth putting in. Still have morning, afternoon, and evening shifts at the place. Was hard not to knock ice down. Got my butt kicked by a girl!

 

Avalanche Hazard: I wouldn’t be two worried on most climbs of something coming down on it’s own. That applies to most places but I certainly would be careful about traversing slopes that have any exposure. This cold spell may have tightened things up and maintained the considerable rating but it is also is not helping the mid-pack any. This may change, new snow and possible warming may spark a new avalanche cycle. Blew off Polar Circus Wednesday because of strong winds and 15 cm new on the hi-way.