[TR] Pan Dome Falls- Indirect Not Enough Screws Va

[Wild_Bill]

Climb: Pan Dome Falls-Indirect Not Enough Screws Variation

 

Date of Climb: 12/13/2005

 

Trip Report:

The ice was a bit thin, brittle, seeping, dinner platey, and much of it had snow and/or water underneath it. There were sections that looked pretty good, but those sections were typcially a thin crust of weak ice with loose snow messy crap underneath. So, you know, it was alright for Pan Dome.

 

We started at the obvious starting section, and then traversed over to the right about midway up and setup a belay in the trees, as I was low on screws (especially short screws). We continued up the right side to avoid making the traverse again, which was kind of a mistake in reterospect. The right side, although moderate in angle, was quite horrible in terms of conditions. Again, just really thin on bad ice.

 

The left side is obviously steeper, but it's of much higher quality than the right side. Bring enough screws for a 50m climb on Baker-quality ice in December. Overall the climbing was okay and the ice "is in", but be selective with your line.

 

Gear Notes:

Plenty of small screws.

 

Approach Notes:

Despite the new snow, the plowers/groomers hooked us up pretty well.

Edited December 14, 2005 by Wild_Bill

[jmace]

What new snow are you speaking of or am I missing something? Sounds like an adventure