Forbidden W Ridge getting spicy

[Silentpartner]

Spent a couple days in Boston Basin last week. The approach couloir for West Ridge on Forbidden is getting quite spicy. The bridge between the rock patches below the schrund was getting thin and sugary. Rap slings in the couloir are difficult to reach because they are now so much higher than the snow level. The moats and the schrund are hungry for unattended ropes after pulling down a rap. Otherwise, an excellent day out. The transition from the top of the couloir onto the rock is still very straightforward. The following day we watched from our camp at the lower moraine as a party of two descended and appeared to be unable to descend the aformentioned sketchy bridge. They scrambled out onto the rock patch to the East and onto the glacier from a moat. They then had to go to the far east side of the glacier to circumnavigate the big open slots and back to the low-angled slabs above the higher moraine camp. Still doable, but definitely full-on late season conditions.

[Highlander]

just use the loose 4th class gully to the left of the couloir. It has rap slings all over the place, but its fairly easy to down climb. Watch out for rock fall if your below your partner.