[TR] Tieton- Lava Point Crag 10/8/2005

[Adventurewagen]

Climb: Tieton-Lava Point Crag

 

Date of Climb: 10/8/2005

 

Trip Report:

Mega Tieton Sport Cragging Trip 2005!!! aka "In search of Sun"

 

I don't share too often, mostly lurk, but I thought this was worth sharing.

 

In our attempts to extend the season we have been on the lookout for sunny dry crags at this point in the season. Our long days are gone and with them the long one day pushes like Slesse or CBR from this season. Good stuff.

 

Anyway, my wife and I headed out for our second trip to Tieton, couple weeks ago we hit the Royal columns and then Lava Point which is what this trip was all about. The drive from Seattle to the crag is about 2hrs 45mins. I-90 to Ellensburg, then south on 82 and West on 12. Just past Naches you make a left to stay on 12, 17.6 miles to the Soup Creek Road. The book for Tieton has incorrect mileage for just about every turn out.

 

This trip we decided we were going to play the role of sport climbers so we brought only the draws, the puffy jackets and the dog. Only thing we forgot was starbucks coffee our crag haul bag and a boom box Sometimes its fun to just clip some bolts though.

 

I suggest the Lava Point crag in Tieton if your looking for well protected easier to mid range sport climbs. Great place if you want to work on breaking into the 10's and 11's. There are only a handful of 9's and a couple each of 10 a,b,c and 11a's as well as a few good 11c/d range climbs. The climbs are all fairly short being 15 to 20 meters each. I found the grading on the easy side for the most part, but sometimes inconsistent. I think if you are a short person some of the climbs can seem much harder there are definately some reachy climbs out there. My wife thought the 10d was easier than the 10a and a 9 but she could reach more of the holds. Go figure? Nothing takes more than 12 draws total including the anchors so bring another 12 draws and rope if you want to get a couple ropes up. The crag is so quiet, nobody was there except for our group so having a bunch of ropes up is doable. It's in the sun most of the day and has shade and a nice place to hang out. Overall very enjoyable climbing area. A couple of the 10c's (Saint of Circumstance) were really great and most of the 11a's were great. Although most of the harder ones were a couple of one move wonders. You can camp for free anywhere along the road to the climb for free and nobody really bugs you. The Hunters are coming in now, so watch out of the narrow road for huge F350's driving 50mph with trailers and stuff. If you have to stay in a camp site the main site Windy Creek or something is the only one still open, 15 a night so its not cheap.

 

There is a small restaraunt along the way, excellent breakfast at a good price! Highly recommended even though the guide book doesn't really say anything about it.

 

We probably won't have time to head back till sometime next season, we need to find a new crag anyway since we really climbed this one out. It does have more than enough climbs for a couple of good days though. I really liked the type of rock alot better than 32 along with the style of climbing it creates, much better quality than vantage for the most part. It's not crimpy like smith, but has more slopers and even some finger locks on some of the sport climbs. Overall very enjoyable place and one of many other crags all up that valley. Definately a good place to escape the rain.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

One Rope and 12 draws.

 

 

Approach Notes:

HWY 12,1 Mile past Haus Creek Campground, North onto Soup Creek Road. Stay left at the fork, park when the road ends and follow the cairns downhill for 10min.

Edited October 10, 2005 by Adventurewagen