FYI/QUESTION on the cidiot/deal w/it ranger

[Matt_Anderson]

Climbed the connection pitch up and right from Godzilla's 1st anchors that ends b/f the traverse to salad fingers(someone called it cidiot? I'm not sure if that's the name or someone was slagging on inacan, regardless, no offense meant). Intended to go on, but forgot about the traverse and got confused/lazy, TR'D deal with it ranger and the bolted variation at the top instead.

 

THE CONNECTION PITCH has got fun/creative moves, and is worth the time, but beware, there's a 20-30 foot section with two possible placements (that I saw). The rock is fine, but the placements are sections where a flare pinches down and any jiggling on the rope will likely cause them to walk out in the blink of an eye: the outer lobe of a camalot sits right on the edge of the placement. If the cam moves up, down or sidewise the placement would be seriously compromised. I put full length runners on the end of the cam's sling to prevent this, and I normally don't even put a draw on cam's except for rope drag. Regardless, it's not like the protection will be a surprise - the flaring nature of the cracks above is very apparent as soon as you step past the first bolt off the Godzilla ledge.

 

Also there's some very loose rock that endangers those below near one of the later bolts on the pitch. It can be avoided, but is a tempting foot hold for those who forget what it looked like when they were lower on the route. It'd be a favor to have your second knock that stuff off if no one is below. (we should have, but didn't . . .).

 

All in all, a nice climb, but beware if it is at your limit (probably an Index low .10 for technical difficulty).

 

THE BOTTOM OF DEAL WITH IT RANGER AND NARROW ARROW DIRECT are still pretty dirty. It doesn't appear that the rain gets in there to clean it. This was my first time on deal w/it, so I don't know how much dirt was there before. The guide book said something about placing a very tiny RP low on the route. The first placement that I saw was a medium sized nut followed by a yellow alien sized placement a couple of feet higher (at about 40 feet or so). Mebbe the dirt obscured the RP placement - usually, I'm pretty keyed into such things.

 

Anybody know if inacan actually went back and attempted to clean off the lower ledges of deal w/it up to around the first bolt? Maybe I'll have to go inspire ire just like he did to get it clean (it's climbable, but there a lot of dirt over some 30 foot ground falls, as far as I can tell.). It doesn't look like leading it would be much fun until it got cleaned. (but maybe I'm just a prima donna for clean rock).

[soulreaper]

I haven't tried DWIR or Natural Log Cabin (corner at top), but have seen/heard two facts pertinent to your questions:

1. The gear is small at the bottom and the original runout section is now protected by a bolt (higher on route). The start is still rather runout (and dirty, now).

 

2. As for the start, I have seen the dirt avoided by traversing in from the Godzilla start. Don't know the difficulty of either, but the Godzilla start is clean.