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Climb: Pingora-Northeast Face (IV 5.8)

 

Date of Climb: 9/7/2005

 

Trip Report:

With the PNW weather looking iffy for Labor Day weekend, my wife and I decided to make a drive out to the Wind Rivers. Spend 4 days there last summer but did not get a chance to do this NA classic route then (did E. Ridge on Wolfs Head and NE Face on Warbonnet).

 

Got out of Portland 4pm Friday after work.

Got to trailhead Saturday at noon.

Got to Cirque of Towers at 4pm.

Got up at 8am Sunday and climbed NE Face on Pingora.

Got up 7am Monday.

Got to trailhead at noon.

Got to Portland 13 hrs later ~2am.

Got to work 9am Tuesday.

 

Nice climb. Busy (2 other parties). E. Ridge on Wolfs Head (other NA classic in the Cirque) was easier but more fun IMHO. Someone posted a very good topo on summitpost (what we used); Kelsey's topo (Wind Rivers guidebook) is off as it'll send you on a rightward off route traverse midway up the face. Couple of shots:

 

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Gear Notes:

Set of nuts. Double set cams from green Alien to #2 Camalot. Single #3 and #3.5 Camalot. Optional one larger cam (#4 C4 or #5 Friend). Be ready for pm thunderstorms.

 

Approach Notes:

Approach is from Big Sandy TH (closest town is Pinedale, WY about 45 minutes of bone rattling driving away). It's about 8 miles each way into the Cirque and takes 4 hours at decent (but not terribly fast) pace. First 6 miles are flat (and boring).

Edited by fgw
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