[TR] Stuart- N. Ridge 9/1/2005

[flyingkiwi1]

Climb: Stuart-N. Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 9/1/2005

 

Trip Report:

Having redpointed the Tooth separately, Kimmo and I decided to team up for an outing on the North Ridge of Mt. Stuart.

 

(1) In a spasm of preparative zeal, Kimmo reads the route description in the Teanaway River Road parking lot.

(2) Dawn at Ingalls Lake

(3) Stuart Glacier. We crossed high; the glacier got really icy and steep near the little spine of rock in the middle of the photo. It might be safer and faster to start lower and do an an ascending traverse here.

(4) Cruising the ridge

(5) Chillin (literally) at the Gendarme. Kimmo led the layback pitch + the traverse on our 80' rope; this meant that we simuled some of it, but that was fine. I had plenty of rope to reach a belay ledge when I led the wide pitch.

(6) Autoflossing on the summit

(7) Stuart from Long's Pass

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

We were jazzed on our 80' rope.

We used the maroon friend on both the Gendarme pitches. I also placed a purple (big) Metolius on the wide pitch. (The well-known stuck #4 camalot still abides therein.)

Other than that, we mostly slung horns and placed the occasional nut.

 

 

Approach Notes:

See our beta on the Stuart Glacier.

Edited September 3, 2005 by flyingkiwi1