Glacier Peak Beta

[jeffh]

Planning an extended trip into Glacier Peak later this month with the out-of-state brother and was planning on taking the Disappointment Peak Cleaver to the summit. I promised him a "walk-up" so my question is, are there any suprises on the way up Disappointment Peak? One book describes it as "steep, loose, and scary". Don't mind steep, can deal with loose, but not looking for scary. We are trying to keep the packs light, thus if we bypass the Gerdine and Cool Glaciers, we can eliminate that gear. Is the added weight worth it as the glacier route looks more enjoyable anyways? Thanks.

[Gary_Yngve]

It's steep, loose, and scary if you avoid the glacier.

 

(I posted a TR on GP a month ago.)

[Norman_Clyde]

I took this route solo in August 1998, thinking I would thereby increase my safety by avoiding the danger of being unroped on a glacier. I can say that staying off the glacier on this route is a pain. Staying on the ridge crest, you will stay a few feet west of easy snow travel as you drag yourself up unpleasant scree and crumbling volcanic gravel, the crux being a 60 degree mudslide in the midst of a small waterfall. I had planned to take the same route down, but after meeting several soloists from the Sitkum at the summit, including one with his dog, I said Forget It and went down the Sitkum, which was completely melted out with no snow left to hide any crevasses; took about 90 minutes to get back to Boulder Basin that way, infinitely easier, and IMO safer than reversing my steps solo. If you've got a partner, just bring a little gear and take the glacier: you won't be sorry.