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Coleman Glacier


xguk

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There are some really deep crevasses neer the toe of the Coleman. Traverse across on the trails, then drop down on the lateral moraine and into the "Mirkwood" camp. From here, continue down until you can access the glacier. Head east and then north until you can find the good stuff. The ice in the crevasses at this part of the glacier is of much higher quality(hard and blue)than either the seracs higher up, or the flats east of the high camp. Have fun.

-J

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Could you please clarify your description for me? I'm going up the Coleman-Deming next weekend. I've been up that route 4-5 times over the past 20 years, last 3 years ago. I don't know what the 'Mirkwood camp' is, or what 'trails' you're referring to. Are you saying that, instead of taking the climber's trail up Heliotrope ridge, and then up the glacier to Black Buttes camp, to keep going on the main trail 'till you can descend to the Coleman Icefall, and pick a route up from there?

Thanks for clearing this up for me.

-David

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Icypeak,

It appears that the other post concerns ice climbing.

If you are climbing the Coleman/Deming route, ascend via the climbers trail up Heliotrope Ridge.

"Mirkwood" is the camp that the forest service calls the "Harrison Camp." This camp can be found a little ways below survey rock at 5000 feet on the ridgeline. There is a small trail below this camp that will bring you out onto the base of the icefall where many people go to ice climb.

To reach this camp, continue straight on the heliotrope ridge trail at the junction. Do not ascend the climbers trail. You will have to cross a number of small creeks. Eventually you will reach Survey Rock. This is an overlook of the Coleman Glacier. Descend the ridgeline to the flat campspot at 5000 feet.

This is NOT a good place to climb the Coleman/Deming route from. It is a good place to use as an ice climbing base camp.

Jason

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