chelle Posted August 31, 2001 Share Posted August 31, 2001 We climbed Forbidden Peak via the East Ridge Direct route last weekend. This is a great climb that should get more attention than it does. The climbing ranger we talked to said only 10% of the attempts are made via the East Ridge. The approach was straightforward. There is still snow in the gully that required us to wear crampons. We didn't feel the need to rope up here. Then it was a scramble on loose scree and slab to the gendarme. The climbing was good, mostly 5.7 with a fun 5.8 pitch. We did more pitches (two additional short ones) than the Potterfield book shows. There is a good bit of rope drag on some sections with all the ups and downs. The descent was 5 rapells down the north side using our 60m rope. We followed the ledges back to the gendarme. Based on a recommendation we stayed higher than the book recommends to avoid the dirty gully. We ended up a little high and had to rap off the first spire and down climb for about 50-60 feet. We did the trip in two days, but I'd recommend three. Hiking out in the dark then driving back to Seattle made for a long day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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