[TR] Mt jefferson- Jefferson Park glacier to N. Ridge 7/2/2005

[Caleb]

Climb: Mt jefferson-Jefferson Park glacier to N. Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 7/2/2005

 

Trip Report:

We hiked it to the mountain on saturday starting at 11 from the parking area. the hike in was gorgeous with great views of the west and north faces.[] we took a wrong turn on the PCT and headed south twoards Russel creek. We realized our error when we hit the creek and decided to simply head stright up the moraine's side rather then go back. Once we hit the ridge of the moraine we hiked a bit and found a great camp spot[]. We planned on waking up at 12 and staring out from camp at 1. we both slept fitfuly but stayed on schedual. we got to the glaicer at about 2. the snow was in excellent conditions and it was cold and clear. we decided to head up the glaicer to the notch in the north ridge because the bergshrung looked inmpassable. the ridge was about 60-70 degrees but the snow was not very solid, lots of hoar. we topped out on a small ridge just under the minor summit of Jefferson. []The pinnicle was steep snow with just a bit of rock poking through. Not wanting to epic just for the junk sumit we decided to descend our route which went quickly. The day was just starting to warm up and it looked promising. On the way down the rock fall was absurd. We both got bonked a few times on the helmet (glad we brought those). walking down the glaicer was hell on the knees but it was in the shade still so excellent cramponing.

 

All in all a great two days to be out and having an adventure.

 

On the way down we saw that the shrund is still just barely passable on the high west side[]

 

Caleb and Alexis

 

 

Gear Notes:

Gear taken - 2 pickets, axe apiece, crampons, hexes, nuts, screw, rope

Gear used - pickets, axes, crampons, rope.

A scond tool would have been nice for the N. ridge

 

Approach Notes:

The trail and the moraines were totally clear.

Edited July 6, 2005 by Caleb

[Chriznitch]

that area is very special, although very sketchy.

I've seen some massive rockfall off the north ridge onto the JPG--glad you didn't get killed!

What was your descent route from the summit pinnacle?

[Crackalicious]

I thought everyone should know the real story,

Caleb has a special descent route:

He has frequented the area and has a massive army of marmots he has trained to burrow a network of human-sized tunnels so he can safely descend rockfall-free by crawling down the route underground (hence the sore knees). Beware, the marmot army in the Jefferson Park area are extrmely faithfull to Caleb and if you ask them for tunnels without his approval they will lead you down tunnels designed specifically to colapse and you will never be seen again.