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Posted

We climbed the East Ridge in a day from HWY 20. I suspect the North Ridge is doable in a day as well. Depends upon how fast and efficient you climb.

Posted

How was the E Ridge? was it really loose 3rd/4th as I've heard, near the top? Did the descent require any raps? What were your times car to summit to car? Axe needed?

Mucho Thanks!

Posted

Yep, the upper 1/3 of the route is loose 3rd and 4th class. However, I didn't find it unacceptable by alpine standards. Stay as close to the ridge as possible. The 3rd class gullies to the SE that Fred refers to are sucker gullies.

We simul climbed the whole route and made one rap on the descent, more of a convenience than necessity. Enjoy the N. Ridge, or whatever you climb - it's a spectacular place! We intend to climb the N. Ridge via the icefall later this summer. However, we'll camp in the col this time rather than starting from HWY 20....too much for me!

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