Keith_Henson Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 On Tuesday, June 21, 2005, Ed Lansing, Keith Henson, and Jim Yoder started up the Fryingpan Creek trail in bright sunshine but low pressure and declining weather predicted for the afternoon toward Little Tahoma. At the check in at the ranger station we also learned that there was high avalanche danger (the Interglacier had slid the day before) and lots of post holing. From Summerland we went beyond the usual scramble up to Meany Crest and headed into the cirque just beyond and gained the ridge line on the east side of the cirque. Upon arriving on the ridge we found ourselves in a rainstorm and clouds. Continuing on the ridge, we camped at 7200 feet at the foot of the slot free Fryingpan Glacier at a tarn with running water. Though the rain abated, we ate our dinner and went to bed in a whiteout. At 3:00 A.M. on Wednesday we looked out and saw clear skis up toward Rainier but a sea of nasty looking black clouds covering the valleys below to the east. Heading up at 4:30 in warm weather, the snow was hard and we cramponed easily and swiftly up the Fryingpan Glacier. This didn't last long. By the time we were at 8000 feet and the sun was up, we started breaking through and post holing with increasing frequency making for very difficult (and slow) traveling. At around 9:00 and 10,000 feet, and after moving trough the col to the Whitman Glacier, the weather began to deteriorate as the clouds rose, eventually enveloping us in a whiteout. As we approached the summit, snow was falling briskly. Now the rope came out of the pack as we belayed the final few feet up the wet rock tower. Jim summitted at 10:15--5 hours after leaving base camp. Making haste after we after all summitted and signed the register at around 10:45, we headed down in a snow storm and with visibility at about 75 yards max . The traverse across the Fryingpan Glacier after crossing the col was especially scary as the snow laden avalanche prone slopes hovered above and the snow slid from our feet down the slop forming giant donuts as we post holed back toward camp. So much snow fell that more than half of our tracks were obliterated--especially where we had cramponed on hard snow. Of course we wanded the route on the way up but route finding was still a challenge on the big featureless glaciers. Jim's adroit route finding got us back to the tent at about 4:00. After 11 hours on the climb we all headed into the tent out of the snow/rain and took a nap. Wednesday night the sky cleared and everything froze. The descent was uneventful except for a black bear in the trail that came too close for my comfort (Jim and I scampered up into the woods!) before finally veering off the trail about 60 feet from Ed snapping away flash pictures. I hope you enjoy the pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couloir Posted June 24, 2005 Share Posted June 24, 2005 Wow! Great TR...sounds very sketchy. Very nice work staying with it though. Can't wait to see the pics! [still can't see them!] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith_Henson Posted June 27, 2005 Author Share Posted June 27, 2005 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=6708 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couloir Posted June 29, 2005 Share Posted June 29, 2005 Aha! That explains the PM. I had forgotten about this post. Thanks Keith! Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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