[TR] Mount Baker- Coleman - Deming 5/29/2005

[TrailPair]

Climb: Mount Baker-Coleman - Deming

 

Date of Climb: 5/29/2005

 

Trip Report:

What a weekend for an alpine adventure!

 

The trail up Heliotrope Ridge is a quick approach to the Glacier. Although, due to the warm weather, the first major stream crossing has a rush of high water. But with the use of poles we managed to get across with mostly dry boots. The second stream crossing where the stream is braided is easiest crossed at the main trail. the water is shallow with a grvel bottom and a few strategically placed rocks to hop across.

 

During the course of the weekend, a regular tent city developed at the Hogs Back. But, those are nice camp sites with running water and toilets nearby.

 

Super K and I trudged up the Glacier near the Black Buttes on soft mashed potato snow. There is an area to the right of the beaten boot track with some nice rocks to sit on and running water nearby (at eleve 6824 ft). This is where we dug out our tent platform and waited for Robert and his intrepid crew of 3 teenage girl mountaineers.

 

We had finished our z-pulley/snow anchor practice session when Robert and the girls showed up (about 4:00pm).

 

After an early dinner we were in the tent to try and get some rest for the 1:00 wake up call.

 

When we got up, the sky ws filled with brilliant stars. There was a soft warm breeze.....making the snow soft and wet. After a quick breakfast we put on the gear and walked over to see how Robert and his crew were doing. They were running a few minutes behind so, K and I headed out. The route was easy to follow. There was a well beaten boot track leading upslope. A group of 14 mountaineers had set up their camp in a level basin at about 7,000 feet. We encountered the entire group of Mountaineers when we reached the saddle between Mount Baker and Sherman Peak. They were moving so slowly we had a peanut butter sandwich while we waited for them to move on up the ridge toward the Roman Wall. But at their slow pace we did take time to install our 'pons on our boots while we were on the ridge. The snow from the saddle on up to the was firm and the steps being provided by the mountaineers could have made the ascent of the Roman wall easy. But K got frustrated by the slow pace so we left the boot track and made our own way to get around some of the slower climbers.

 

The sun was already up when we got onto the summit plateau. A glorious day! 5 hours from camp to the summit. We made the stroll to the summit block for the summit photos, then came down for a snack and short rest break before we started our descent. Robert and the girls showed up while we were resting. The girls looked as if they were enjoying their experience.

 

Taking due caution down the Roman wall, we made sure to set good self belays and used the boot tracks to sep down the slope. From the saddle back to camp it was wading through the soft snow. Very tiring on the quads. We were back at the camp at 10:00 took off the gear and dove into the tent for a nap.

 

A very successful and very fun climb.....including the nasty sunburn we got.

 

Gear Notes:

Ice axe, crampons. Shoulda had a wide brimmed hat for sun portection.