Mt. Lefroy

[scrambled_legs]

Just trying to get an idea of how long the west face route on Lefroy is. How long should I plan for from car to car and what do you expect the conditions to be like right now?

[stinkyclimber]

I've only done it in summer when it is icy, but from speaking with friends who have done it in early season conditions, it sounds like it is a steepish, but easy snow climb. Even in the summer, it is pretty casual from a technical point of view (50 degree max, and only for a short section) - no need to rope up. The key is the approach conditions.

 

The death trap glacier is no longer the recommended approach, at least in the summer (due to large moat/schrund) although we didn't have too much trouble. It is probably pretty easy now, but you might skill need skis or snowshoes. Avvies would be a concern, esp. afternoon sluffs off of Victoria. The "death" seracs are no longer as big an issue as they were in the 80s, although every season is different. Move quickly. Watch especially for tourist hordes on the trail - significant objective hazard from yappy dogs and German tourists out to take close-up photos of grizzly bears.

 

The other approach, up the gross gully from the O'Hara side, is south facing so should be snow free before everything else. No idea of the state right now. If it ain't snow free, it would probably be a slog. Also, the bus into O'Hara doesn't start until mid-June, adding 12km to your trip.

 

Daytrips from the Deathtrap side aren't too long (8hrs?), assuming the 'shrund isn't an issue and the travelling conditions are decent. The O'Hara side would be a short 2 day trip, with an overnight at the hut (which is awesome)...and then you can roll in Victoria as well. The climb from Abbott Pass to summit, on the actual face, is quite short - maybe 45 minutes (and daytrippers up the 'Trap can shortcut by starting up the face lower down the glacier).

 

Have fun. Stash beer just past the 6 Plains Teahouse so you can stroll back along the tourist path with proper hydration.

 

Ask for up to the minute conditions at the Live the Vision board

[meganerd]

Stash beer just past the 6 Plains Teahouse so you can stroll back along the tourist path with proper hydration.

 

You're pretty much describing, to the letter, my first introduction to the Canadian Rockies as an 18 year old...

 

Be sure to hold up your ice axes to the hordes of asian tourists as a solute to get truly heartfelt oohs and ahhs and "we take pictah??!!!" over and over...

[stinkyclimber]

Stash beer just past the 6 Plains Teahouse so you can stroll back along the tourist path with proper hydration.

 

You're pretty much describing, to the letter, my first introduction to the Canadian Rockies as an 18 year old...

 

Be sure to hold up your ice axes to the hordes of asian tourists as a solute to get truly heartfelt oohs and ahhs and "we take pictah??!!!" over and over...

Hey, this is not just a technique for novices. Proper hydration is important for everyone. And on the ice axe waving thing...even Fred Becky uses strategically positioned climbing equipment to pick up chicks on the walk out. It sounds like you were taught well your first time out.