[TR] Washington Pass Ice Conditions- Road cut and BC 12/1/2004

[MarkAllen]

Climb: Washington Pass Ice Conditions-Road cut and BC

 

Date of Climb: 12/1/2004

 

Trip Report:

On the East side of the Hill this fall the cold air gave a us a pump fake in Oct along with med to heavy rain to stoke the spirits of Mazama ice climbers. The warming trends override the early snap and winter has taken more of a slow deliberate approach. By comparing this trend of wet weather and cold snaps to the early resident snow of last winter concluded that 90% of the climbable ice on the Goat Wall is frozen snow seep of the hanging southwest facing snow slopes not active drainage. This means that this year on the Goat is relatively non existent at the moment.

However, the Chinook that caused the rain over Thanksgiving followed by the dramatic and rapid cooling (11 low degs) for several days was captured and preserved at Washington Pass.

This year on the first week of December WA pass saw some of its best ice in years. All of the one Pitch Wonders “children with cars” Routes came in fat and several long Gully routes.

 

Day 1: My partner Brendan and I cruised up to Liberty Bell and climbed a one pitch wonder of nice Canadian ice WI4 tucked nicely in a an alcove climbers right of the first pitch of Liberty Bell’s East Face Inspiration Route. We coined it “Liberty Ice”

 

Day 2: Brendan and I climbed a 2-3 pitch route up the farthest left-hand road cut gully the DOT calls “LB2”. This is a thin 100ft ramble past a log and bolder up a snow chute and back into a hidden corridor where the gully forks. The left hand route climbs WI3 to a dead end (can be seen from base) options are to v-thread or mix master on chill but choosy out right to middle of second pitch of the Right hand fork. The Right hand route is a stellar WI4 with two distinct curtains and thin sections on the lower angled terrain with forced run outs. The full pitch is 70m to a safe tree belay. The Whole route is about 180m. It was easy to include the Left had route with the Right by using the same belay for both. Descend by walking south towards the LB1 slide path and walk off. This route is one of the most active slide paths at the pass. If this forms and you are on it do not attempt it with even a hint of avy potential it goes regularly. Also LB1 was responsible for closing the Hwy this year with debris 12ft deep. This route LB2 is WI4 R III

 

I took several great photographs of these two days but during our descent some punter driving a car stole our pack at the base with my camera. May God have mercy on your sole during a run out.

 

Day 3-6 these days where spent on the road cut climbs while we were able to climb all the major lines and top rope some mixed exploration.

 

Grahm Zimmerman at top of WI3

MA on WI4

Grahm in mixed chose right of WI3

Exploring toothless wonder M5

 

Grahm on the Ramp Route M3-4

Allen on 50/50 Mhard

This was the most fun line all day left of WI4 and right of narrow WI3

 

To all our dismay the LB1 an LB2 gullies naturaly released and closed he Hwy for the season on Dec 8th. THe BC Ice at the Rainey lake were done a hand full of times and they looked to be in great shape aswell. It was a short window. Lets hope it sticks around for the spring. But here is a little something to wet the mouth. Chears and see you in Canada.

 

Mark

 

Approach Notes:

none

Edited December 25, 2004 by MarkAllen