Denali - South Buttress

[Dylanbob]

I am planning on climbing Denali via the entire length of the south buttress in May. I have good information regarding the route from the Lotsa Face and above. I am seeking any information regarding the route from the Kahiltna Glacier up to the Lotsa Face - particularly in gaining the buttress from the glacier.

I am also interested in contacting any of the following climbers who reportedly climbed the entire south buttress route in May of 1995: Mark Asprey, Ron Bauer, Marcus Brown, Tahoe Rowland, Mike Vanderbeek, and Tom Whalen. Anyone know how to contact any of these folks?

[W]

Dylan,

You might have already checked it, but there is a thread about the South Buttress on Page 2 of the climber's board in which I gave another guy the beta on the 1954 route, which I did (from the Ruth Amp.) in 1996. However, I can help you out on the entire buttress beta as well; in 1995, our first attempt, we reached the top of Lotsa face and got weathered out. So we decided to retreat the lower South Buttress, in the blind, to the Kahiltna, knowing only that it had been done only once, that being the previous year (1994). From Margaret Pass we traversed along the ridgecrest, passing over two 12,200' peaks- the first of which involved some exposed traversing on blue ice, followed by an extremely sharp knife-edge with a short corniced section and lots of exposure. The second, peak 12,240, which stands in full view of Kahiltna Base, was easy but there is substantial cornicing on the north side of the ridge, and there are also some crevasses in the ridgecrest. From 12,240, for our descent to the se fork, we had no idea where the other's route had gone, and from above it was impossible to see- so we guessed, and guessed very wrong- descending to the skier's left, straight toward the Moonflower Buttress on Hunter, looming directly across the canyon. One of my partners took a 30' crevasse fall as we end-ran parallel to a crevasse, then we downclimbed 1800 feet of 45-60 degree ice in a terrifying gutter scoured by the house sized seracs looming directly over our heads the whole way; but it was the only way down now that we were over half way down the 4000' descent. It sucked and I felt lucky to have lived in retrospect, one of those "learning experiences" in the formative years, so to speak. Anyway this isn't important, what is important is that you do not go this way. The other group as I recall climbed from the col between Mt. Francis and 12,240, and from what I've observed at base camp it looks straightforward. Watch the avy danger though. By the way, the ridge from 12,240 to Margaret Pass is spectacular, both for the ridge traverse/climbing and for the views of Hunter Foraker, and Denali on three sides. It was one of my most memorable days in the Alaska Range.

If you have any more questions let me know, and good luck!

ps- I don't know about the remaining four, but Tahoe Rowland I believe was killed a year or two later in an avalanche somewhere, and Mike Vanderbeek, an NPS climbing volunteer, died in a fall from 16,000 on the west buttress in 1998 while on a rescue mission in poor weather.

[Dylanbob]

w - great. this was just the information i was looking for. thanks much. if any other helpful information comes to mind, please send them my way at bkiev@home.com