[TR] Mt Baker- Off Route, but not groveling 8/11/2004

[ketch]

Climb: Mt Baker-Off Route, but not groveling

 

Date of Climb: 8/11/2004

 

Trip Report:

Made up my own Off route for Baker on Aug 11,12. Started out with a partner that bailed, new partner with a bit more experience and we hatched a plan for a C-D to Park carryover. He didn't show up so I figured what the hay I'm doin something. I picked up my pack and headed in, at the wye I stayed left to hit the side of the Roosevelt glacier with intents of climbing around and practiceing route finding. (the lower roosevelt is pretty broken as usual). After a while of messin around it didn't look that bad so I ascended to the flats and traversed to pick up the Coleman Deming route. Followed that up to a favorite camp at about 7700ft below Lincon peak. What an awsome spot to watch the Persaids and relax (soon forgot about jerk expartners). The meteors were still out for breakfast when I headed up. At the bottom of the Roman headwall it was apparant that it was pretty melted out and that it was mostly dirty ice with water running over it. I decided to traverse again and pickup the Easton Route for the finish. Once I reached the shadowed area on the Easton it was good going right up. I found that once you clear the ridge that even that route is starting to melt out. There are a few new end runs that are apperant.

 

The Easton route showed lots of activity (four teams on that route coming up behind me) The standard CD is in fair shape for being late season (only saw two teams though). Several large open crevasses no real tough route finding challenges. It is melting out quick enough that the cow path disappears before it gets real set. Lots of recent reroutes evident.

 

I wil post a few pics if any are good in a couple days.

 

Gear Notes:

A partner would have been nice

I only brought slow film so that I could get some pictures. If I would have thought about the meteors I would have brought some fast stuff. Missed several good night sky shots.

 

 

Approach Notes:

Route mostly in good shape. despite my goofing off I was 4.5 hours from trailhead to 7700. 3:50 to summit from camp. Caution would be good on the traverse from the pumice ridge across to the Easton route as that is getting a bit soggy. A helmet also as there were several rocks headed down the hill.