tivoli_mike Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 Climb: Blueberry Hill-Western Buttress aka Booty Central Date of Climb: 8/8/2004 Trip Report: Headed out on my first, long multipitch trad route w/ scottp. Hit the base of the Sidewalk around 9ish. Switched to rock shoes for a small part of the quite damp lower portion, we finally made it to the base of the climb around 10. Did about six pitches up to the terrace, scoring several slings and one big cam along the way. We found another one on the crux pitch, but it was pretty well stuck in its crack. Fumbled around the anchors to Dark Rhythm and decided on just rapping from trees more directly above our route. We rapped down to and used two of the Dark Rhythm anchors before traversing across to avoid the "rope eating flake" on Dark Rhythm's third pitch. Made it to the packs around 4:30, and cursed the entire descent down the "Sidewalk". Kudos to Perkins and the rest who make that journey on a regular basis. Notes about the route: There is one rather nasty looking flake above the fourth pitch that is bowing out into an arch and looks like it could release at any moment. We climbed along the left of it, but I would give it a wide berth if you can. Plus, we can't believe the booty we scored on this climb , including the 3.5 cam that came out of its crack with a quick application of the nut tool. All-in-all a great day to climb and gain some experience placing pro and getting critiqued "You fool! You call that a placement?" The last pitch is runout but fairly low key. Gear Notes: Bring lotsa slings , in case you 're having to rap from the trees. Gear up to 3.5" is appropriate Approach Notes: Hellish descent down the slabs after a day of climbing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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