[TR] Mt Rainier- Kautz Glacier 7/25/2004

[Timcb]

Climb: Mt Rainier-Kautz Glacier

 

Date of Climb: 7/25/2004

 

Trip Report:

Climbed the Kautz Glacier route last weekend. It was great fun- here's some beta:

 

The fan is completely melted out. We crossed the nisqually further up, on some nice benches and ramps. However, this will soon become substantially more difficult as some key snow bridges melt out in the coming weeks. Last weekend we found this option a fun alternative to the scree slog

 

We were able to use a fixed rope to descend from camp hazard toward the ice pitches. from there, descend a bit more, then traverse over loose rock, then a bit of dirty water ice, until you're on flat snow.

 

traverse more and you're at the base of the first ice pitch. All the ice was fun and straightforward- lots of little steps, no prolonged exposure- if you've got a little experience climbing ice. if you don't, you'll find it very exciting indeed.

 

The first pitch was probably about a full rope length, maybe a bit more. Then there's a mellow snow slope, then a second, more difficult ice pitch that's only like 100 or 120 feet.

 

From the top, it's a nice slog to the top of the mtn. we carried over and descended the DC, which was nice and utterly stress free

 

Enjoy! it's a sweet route with some real adventure to it

 

Gear Notes:

Carried 4 screws and 6 pickets. I'd definitely recommend screws- we used all ours and were glad to have them. Pickets were less useful- I'd recommend the standard glacier climbing picket/person.

 

Leader and one of the followers had an ice tool along with their axe. The route can be done by an experienced party without carrying a second axe/tool, but the tool made it more fun and secure.

 

I was glad I didn't bring my aluminum crampons

 

Approach Notes:

see notes about crossing nisqually

[Timcb]

I see people have been asking more about camps..

 

We stayed at a high camp on the west side of the top of the turtle, just a short ways below camp hazard. There were a couple other parties there and the sites are good- no need to camp on snow. There was running water about 80' from our tent.