[TR] Mt. Adams- Mazama Glacier 7/17/2004

[mattyg]

Climb: Mt. Adams-Mazama Glacier

 

Date of Climb: 7/17/2004

 

Trip Report:

After searching this site for beta on permits and whatnot for the Mazama Glacier route I called the Mt. Adams Ranger District, Trout Lake Ranger Station (509) 395-3400 for the update. Ranger Tom told me that a Cascade Volcano Pass is not required for climbs originating inside the Yakima Indian Nation. Armed with that knowledge and willing to pay any fees imposed at the trailhead my partner Trevor and I made the long drive in to Bird Creek Meadows trailhead on Friday night. Five and a half hours after leaving Seattle we arrived at the TH and slept in the back of the car.

 

Awaking to the buzz of mosquitoes (repellant recommended for the TH but not really needed after you set off) we packed up and sped up the trail, stopping to take in the view from Hellroaring overlook. Cloud cover was just enough to keep us from frying. After clambering up over a talused ridgeline we dipped down into the basin and onto the talus fields that lead up to the edge of the glaciers. At this point the regular trail peters out but the route is pretty well marked via well placed cairns and orange blazes on rocks. Meandering through intermittent snow fields we reached Sunrise Camp at about noon. There are 6 or 7 well fortified tent braces there with enough flat area for many more. Running water is available via glacial melt at Sunrise and we took full advantage of that. There is a great view of the route up the Mazama glacier from camp; you can see all the way to the false summit. Noting that there are a few cracks opening up on the lower Mazama, I mentally went over the route in my head. We spent most of Saturday hydrating and meeting our caloric intake needs.

 

Got up around 2am on Sunday morning, rigged up and set out under a completely clear sky. It was fairly warm out and the snow was perfectly set for the long haul. We opted to not use our crampons and got away with this for quite some time. As it started to get light we found ourselves pretty high on the Mazama without even seeing a crevasse (we'd passed them all early on when it was still dark). Several light rainsqualls passed by (yes, it was pretty warm) as we made our way onto the upper Mazama. Right near the top of the glacier we encountered some ice underneath the snow that caught me a little off guard. I slipped and lost my footing, went sliding down the slope for a ways before I was able to self arrest. I guess that's why we carry all these spiky bits. Trevor braced for impact but I was able to stop myself just before the rope came snug (whew!). After some serious self-flagellation we put on our crampons on and continued up.

 

After cresting over the top of the Mazama just beneath the false summit the route joins the South Spur route at about 11,200. It's almost comical how many people and !dogs! were coming up from this direction. We joined the throng and put our heads down for the last push. Fairly windy on top but relatively warm as we took the requisite pictures and chatted with our co-summiters.

 

The slog back down was uneventful and again, the snow conditions were perfect. Awesome butt glissading near the top saw us back to the false summit. We saw evidence of rockfall on the lower slopes of the Mazama but didn't hear or witness any actually fall. It would be easy to keep out of the way of any errant rock. Many foot glissades and we made it back to the tent with bowls of ramen for sustenance.

 

I would definitely recommend this climb as an easy walk-up route on Adams. It is not crowded and very straightforward. Sorry no pics yet - I'm still stuck in the film age. Matt.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Standard glacier travel rig

 

Approach Notes:

Road is free and clear to Bird Head Meadows TH. Trail to Sunrise Camp is well marked.