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Climb: Tupshin Peak -attept-East Ridge Direct

 

Date of Climb: 7/8/2004

 

Trip Report:

Left Stehekin on Wednesday Morning @ 10AM and hiked up the ridge between Devore and Marjerum Creeks. Rapped down to an alpine camp at about 6400' for the night. Thursday morning we starting roped simul-climbing right away, in and out amongst the pinncles of the LONG east ridge. Eventually we broke out the long rope and started running out protected pitches. 4427tupshin_027-med.jpg Through clouds and little fresh snow we encountered very loose rock, but some nice climbing as well. by 2:00PM we were just a notch away from the summit pinnacle, but we did not have time to make it up and back adn still be home by that night. We did a three-rappel decent into a rocky scree valley on the south side of the mountain 4427Rap_shot-med.JPG, and sidehilled our way around the ridgeback to our stashed gear. We left our 6400' notch at 5:30, and booked it back down the mountain, home by 8:30. Although we didn't make the true summit pinnacle, it was a great trip. THis was my first roped climbing experience, and I probably slowed us down a good deal, but the experience was good to gain. Here are some pics.

 

 

4427Flight_with_Jake_7_4_04_025-med.jpg

 

4427Flight_with_Jake_7_4_04_026-med.jpg

 

4427Flight_with_Jake_7_4_04_042-med.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

Lots of long runners. Rap rings, a few basic chocks. If someone had some small cams, they would have been helpful as well.

 

Approach Notes:

The route is brushy and stepp until about 4,500 feet. Then the ridge opens up and it's easy going until the climbing starts at about 6,500'. The best way to get to the summit would be to head down over the ridge and walk up the valley on the South side of the ridge to just below the summit pinnacle. IT would be less climbing than what we did, but more direct.

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