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Kangaroo Temple

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Looking for better route description for Southwest Route on Kangaroo Temple. This is for guidebook revision.


Thanks and watch out for obvious descent gullies.



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I have climbed the SW face of Kanga Temple a few times. It would be a good idea to revise the topo and description in the next edition of your guide book. Here is what I have seen.

Pitch 1: I have only done the direct start variation as it seems logical if scary. First this prich is 230' which necesitates some simulclimbing. Not a huge deal since by then the leader has been able to get to a crack that takes some gear and the first 50' of the slab is easy going for the second. But....the middle of the slab climbing is way run out. Ala Toulomne meadows circa 1976! There is NO pro till one gets to a big eyebrow overlap 100' up on 5.7-5.8. Then thanks to Paul Butler there is a nice 3/8" bolt to help protect the crux but you are still maybe 15'-30' out on real friction till you get to anything you can call a hold. I'd call these moves 5.9 in the real world. Then it runs out again 60'-80' at 5.6-5.7 to a sorta crumbly crack that leads to the sandy ledge shown on your topo pg 308. No decent possibilities for achors till the ledge. This is old school climbing! This pitch give you a taste of what is to come as pro is not plentiful on this route.

Pitch 2: Should show a 5.8 OW as it is not a hand crack. It is 4+". Well protected where you need it.

Pitch 3: You can not reach the tree shown on topo as the belay for 3. With a 60m rope you have to set up a belay in the chimney. Not the most comfy but it is solid and safe.

Pitch 4; The chimney is not 4th class. Not hard so call it 5.6 but definitely not 4th class. There is a two bolt anchor at the semi hanging belay at the end of 4. Thanks Paul!

Pitch 5: This part of the topo is OK but call the squeeze 5.8. The topo is mis labled here. According to the description you come into a cave for the belay which is correct but this is not the Gallery; it is higher. So remove Gallery from the topo on P5. The 5.8 cracks and loosness is for real here with that crumbly orange rock on the crux, poorly protected lie back. Not easy to get pro on this pitch.

Pitch 6: Traverse around corner to bolt or pin with tatty slings. Not sure why the FA needed to rap here as this is some of the best rock and easiest climbing on the route. The chimney above is easy (5.5 not 5.7) but unprotected as I recall. This ledge has the Gallery as it has a hole that passes through to the other side. You belay right in the mouth of the Gallery not below it as the topo shows. The tree is the best anchor as there is a lot of loose rock around.

From there on the topo is fine.

Overall this is somewhat contrived and unaesthetic route. It also is a handfull for a grade III 5.8 climb compared to say the SW rib on SEW.

Good luck on your revision work. Thanks for doing this.

I haven't see you since we climbed the Early Morning Couloir on N Sister in OR 15 years ago.


Scott Johnston

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