Climbers Guide Assistance Part II - Mt. Washington

[bremerton_john]

There are a couple routes on Washington that are to be revised. As mentioned in the previous post, we'd like some input on the write-ups, time, class etc.

 

a. SE Ridge Route 3 - The current description has frustrated many. Here is the beginning of a revised description. Some additional info will be added concerning the first bolted pitch, the rappels etc.

From the parking area, find a convenient place on the uphill side of the road to surmount the road cut. Then climb to the crest of the ridge. Follow the crest of the ridge up, bypassing difficulties on the right (N) side and regaining the crest as soon as you are able. At about xxxx ft elevation you come to some prominent gendarmes. Allow yourself to be forced right (N) around the head of the steep gully and up through a small pass. After the pass contour closely along the base of the gendarmes until you arrive in a small well defined bowl at the base of the Shield Wall. At this point you have three choices. One option is to proceed up the gentle slope to the right (N) of the Shield Wall and into the NE basin which contains Routes 2, 4 and Winter Direct. Another option is to climb the Shield Wall and follow the ridge to the summit. This is a multi-pitch, middle 5th class undertaking. The 3ed option is to climb up and left to the narrow notch between the gendarmes and the shield wall. Just on the other (S) side of the notch you will find a short (15ft) chimney. Ascending this chimney will bring you to a broad ledge that leads out into the very large upper basin of Route 1.

 

b. Winter Direct II, A1-1

Two tools and both rock and snow protection advised. This route should not be attempted in the summer as rock fall would be horrendous. Winter Direct is commonly done in mid-winter, often on Washington's birthday. The route doesn't come into shape until after several major winter storms. This is an avalanche chute that runs every major storm, which contributes to its quality. Climbers not well versed in avalanche should not attempt this route. Approach using the SE Ridge. From the bowl under the shield wall proceed right into the NE basin. follow the base to the SE Ridge to the avalanche cone produced by Winter Direct. Climb the cone to the step and the narrow neck, which is the start of the upper part of the route. In dry years a short section of dry tooling may be requi=red. Once into the neck you will be on very hard avalanche packed snow which generally becomes softer the higher you go. The route tops out at the base of the summit block.

 

c. Suprise Couloir II,4

FA 1983. Approach from Route 1 or SE Ridge. This route is the couloir nearest the SE ridge that appears to go to the summit when viewed from the large upper basin of Route 1. Best done early season when snow fills the couloir.

Traverse to the base of the route from either approach. Two tools may speed the ascent. At the top of the couloir you will encounter a thicket of Alaska cedar. After making your way through this thicket you arrive on a knife ridge looking down into Winter Direct. From this point traverse left along the ridge until you reach the broad bench of the upper part of Route 1. Rock protection is advised for the traverse. The route tops out at the base of the summit block.

 

-John