[TR] Silver Star- Burgundy Col 6/13/2004

[obsydian]

Climb: Silver Star-Burgundy Col

 

Date of Climb: 6/13/2004

 

Trip Report:

We saw that weather was coming in and knew the forcast wasn't good for Saturday night, decided to camp at Burgundy Col for the higher elevation to be in snow instead of rain, took about 5 hours from the road to the Col with full packs and leisurely pace. We set up 3 tents on snow at the Col, appeared to be several established bivy sites, only a couple large enough for a small tent. Wind blew hard all night, received about 1" of snow, still sustained winds of 35mph at 7am, finally cleared enough to start the climb at 9am. Very glad we camped high.

 

Very steep descent from camp on the East side of the Col, the traverse around to the right is on a steeper slope then many will be prepared for, could be very difficult if icy. Continue rising right traverse to a saddle, then rising traverse to saddle between East and West peaks, quite steep on final approach, will pass one or two crevasses.

 

We found snow and ice all the way to the summit block, stayed roped up, used 2 pickets and 3 slings on rocks to protect with running belay. We stayed left and climbed the 5.4 crack (not hard) protected with 2 nuts, variations are the middle face (5.4?) or traverse 30 feet to the right and up an exposed 3rd class gully. Stayed roped up on the summit area, belayed each climber over to the final summit pyramid 15' away, let them touch the top. Downclimbed the 3rd class gully while roped up, placed protection for running belay back to the saddle.

 

All in all a very nice alpine climb, has lots of variety, a recommended objective.

 

Gear Notes:

Glacier gear, pickets, few pieces of rock pro & slings.

 

Approach Notes:

Trail starts about 300 yards downhill from mile marker 166, the old Silver Star road marker sign has been swept away by avalanche, but you can find the metal footings, trail starts there. Good log crossing, foot trail bears a bit right, eventually becomes a well distinguished path. From the main camp on the 6,400’ plateau, follow the boot path, will go up a gulley, then rising traverse to the right, will continue this pattern in two more gullies, eventually coming out about 500’ below the Col.