Denali South Buttress

[Guest]

Planning on doing the South Buttress this summer and interested in beta from someone that has already attempted it. Especially anyone that tried it fairly late season since we won't be going in until 7 June. Either Kahiltna or Ruth approach. Thanks!

[Guest]

I am not trying to be a grinch or anything but why are you attracted to the south buttress?

I wasn't inspired by looking at the line up close and didn't like the way it just when on and on without really going up. As for gaining elevation, it lacks the elegance of a high traverse. --- Just my opinion and I realize that many of you will disagree with me. I'm not saying that a couple of the other routes are elegant either though. If I was the only climber on earth, it would truly be the last line on Denali I would pick according to the washburn photos.

[W]

Glenn, I did the south buttress 5 years ago, starting from the Ruth Amp.

The west fork of the Ruth is mellow until 9000' where a crevassed icefall bars the way. There were very wide crevasses splitting almost the entire width of the glacier. We were able to pass the biggest one by going far to the left, but there was some exposure to hanging seracs. At the end of the canyon is no place to be if it snows a lot. The walls are high and the glacier very narrow. The 2200' foot ice face leading you out of here is avalanche prone. Since 96, it appears to have broken up considerably and there may now be some serious crevasse problems. Going in June (we did it in April) I'd be worried about the avy danger on this slope and in the canyon in general. Climb at night and choose your campsites with great heed in here! The "lotsa" face from 12400 to 13600 is composed of brittle, smooth, diamond hard 50 degree ice and is tiring with a big pack. This is the crux. Once on the buttress crest, the route is pretty simple, but a few corniced sections keep things interesting. We were heavy and so instead of finishing direct on the SE face, descended into Thayer Basin and crossed it, then climbed onto the Thayer ridge via another low angle but taxing blue ice slope. This ridge might be the most spectacularly beautiful place I have ever been. The east face falls away 10,000 feet to the Traleika Glacier! The climbing is easy along here. The high camp at 17,200 along the edge of Harper Glacier is a raw and unprotected place. The night we arrived the winds ravaged our camp. There is a good boulder to pitch the tent beneath, in a hollow right off the crest. The NE ridge is a nice way to hit the top, easy. Then we traversed Denali Pass the next day and so didn't have to drag all our gear higher than 18k.

The route obviously is really long. we tried it the previous year and were defeated by weather and going too light (you don't hear the latter reason very often, but in this case it was actually true!). Our successful climb was a siege effort essentially, no fixed lines, but we double carried a great deal of the early sections of the route.

While my style of climbing has since changed, and so I wouldn't do a route of this type again, I will disagree with you, J. The ridgecrest doesn't ascend much, no, but is a magnificent place. Full on views of the Ruth and Kahiltna. We spent 31 days on this climb (28 to to reach the top, 3 to carry over and descend to Kahiltna Base)and after day 2 in the Ruth Amp. didn't see another soul til 26 days later. This way was also nearly a high-level circumnavigation that allowed us to view all sides of the mountain and the surrounding peaks.

[This message has been edited by W (edited 03-23-2001).]

[This message has been edited by W (edited 03-23-2001).]

[This message has been edited by W (edited 03-23-2001).]

[Guest]

W thanks for the info! Yeah, the avi danger is my primary concern. Next is how broken up the glacier will be in June. Definitely considering the 18k traverse idea to avoid descending or doing a full carry over.

As far as the attraction...I've already done the West Butt and wanted something different and more challenging but still within my current skill level. South Butt sounds like it. Probably next time it'll be the Rib. Something about climbing up there just gets under the skin...kind of like chiggers.