TR - The North Shore

[smiley]

On our way across the country, we decided to stop and check out the rumored great climbing up on the North Shore of Lake Superior... Woke up early on Saturday morning, grabbed some coffee and a bagel and headed north to spend the sunny (albeit chilly) day enjoying the area. First stop was Tettegouche State Park to sign in. (FYI, if you are climbing on the North Shore, a pass is required. It's free though.)Seeing as how Shovel Point was a 5 minute hike away, we grabbed our packs and headed out.

 

Let me just say right now, that there was a trend which was prominent with us throughout the day. We had decided not to buy the guidebook for the North Shore. Bad plan. But the only one available was about 30 bucks. It's the Falcon guide and covers all of MN and WI. We don't plan on climbing in that area again, thus we didn't want to spend the money just for one day.

 

As far as we could tell, Shovel Point is only acessible from the top of the cliff. So without a guidebook, we were able to see where the climbs topped out, but not how hard the route was, or anything else about it. After poking around there for a bit and enjoying the view,(It's spectacular!) we decided to head to Palisade head, just a few miles south of Shovel Point, which is where we were planning on climbing in the first place.

 

At Palisade head, after escaping from the tourists gawking at the lake in the parking lot, the hike down left something to be desired, for me at least. There is lots of loose pebbles on the rock there, which made the scramble down the gully somewhat treacherous. The last little 5.0 downclimb was super loose and chossy, but luckily someone had fixed a rope there, so we were able to rap with no problem at all. I was not looking forward to climbing back up it though.

 

After we walked the entirety of the base of the area, we both came to the same conclusion: Nothing looked appealing. It was weird, we were in this place that supposedly had great climbing, but cracks led nowhere, the rock looked like it could eat a whole hand (one route there is named Laceration Jam)... I dunno. We just weren't psyched. Maybe we're wusses, maybe we just needed a guidebook, and maybe being in Yosemite a few weeks ago jaded us... who knows.

 

In any case, there was one more area we wanted to check out, so we made our escape by way of a 5.7 crack which my partner led. It was called TRG or FLT or GFL or who knows what... I forget. The route followed this flake that was insanely sharp. I swear I could've sliced an apple in half on the edge of that damn thing! There were immense amounts of loose gravel at the top of the climb which were falling on my partner as he was leading, thanks to some tourons up above I'm sure.

 

After that whole ordeal, we were excited to check out one more place, Section 13, off of County road 6. It required a 20 min or so (?) hike along the Superior Hiking Trail, which was quite pleasant. The location of this particular crag was beautiful! From the top we had great views of the lake and the inland as well. The rock here, anorthsite I believe, was also much more aesthetic than on the shore. Turns out we weren't able to climb anything.(no damn guidebook, some of the cracks withered away towards the top so we couldn't lead, the others were full of mud, etc etc...) We were bummed about not climbing, but psyched to be in such a beautiful spot.

 

All in all, a pitiful 1 pitch during a whole day on the North Shore. But we still had a great time, so all wasn't lost. Moral of the story: If you're planning on heading up there, buy or borrow a guidebook! At least that would be my advice....

 

 

(should this TR be in the Rockclimbing Forum? I wasn't sure... )

[carolyn]

You sure picked a cold time of the year to be up there!

 

A guidebook is definately helpful. Were there not others around to help you figure out whats/what? And yes, at Tetagouche you lower to various ledges...not the bottom (or you wind up in the lake).

 

 

Its too bad you didnt get on anything at Palisade Head. the escape route doesnt really count...it sux.

I think if you had gotten on any of the classics you would have found it to be pretty decent climbing (despite the sharp rock).

 

Sounds like you enjoyed some of the the scenery. Its really not THAT bad out here in the midwest.

 

Any time you folks are out this way, give me a holler and Im happy to try and meet up or direct you to decent climbing in the area.

[carolyn]

As far as we could tell, Shovel Point is only acessible from the top of the cliff. So without a guidebook, we were able to see where the climbs topped out, but not how hard the route was, or anything else about it.

 

This is how us Minnesotans keep non locals out of the area!

(kidding)

[smiley]

Were there not others around to help you figure out whats/what?

 

Nope... just one dude and he was clueless. I'm suprised there weren't more people up there on a Saturday, but like you said, it was a bit chilly...