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Mt Garfield, Sport Route Topo?


whodgman

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Mount Garfield (4,880 feet) dominates the Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie River Valley. Infinite Bliss (V 5.10b), now America's longest sport route, ascends the south face of the West Peak of this massive, multi-summit enigma, gaining 2,600 vertical feet in 23 pitches.

Leland Windham and Steve Martin completed the route on August 10 after two years of hellish top-down labor. Situated on the western edge of Snoqualmie Pass in the Cascades, the stunning face route offers views of surrounding snow-capped peaks as well as Mount Rainier, 40 miles south.

Infinite Bliss starts off on runout, polished granite slabs then sweeps skyward on bizarre, vertical metamorphite. Pitches 11 and 19 are 5.10b, while pitches 21 and 23 are 5.10a. The rest of the climbing is 5.9 or under. Many of the lower-rated pitches are runout: Pitch 12, a full ropelength of 5.1, has one bolt. "No one is going to bitch about this thing being over-bolted," says Windham. -- Keith Mark Johnson

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