Peter_Puget Posted December 7, 2003 Posted December 7, 2003 (edited) Excerpts from the threads: (Version 4.0) INDEX A Dysfunctional World A1, it's a small variation to the first part of Skin Graph (aid route next to Preying Mantas(sp?). It starts up the ramp to the right and useing hooks, tiny cams or baby angles it's way back into Skin Graph on a big flake thing. Skin Graph is missing a rivet or something so you lower off a single good bolt. It's very short(maybe 20 feet new) 'Cream of the Country' - it's a 10c finger crack with some face moves. It was put up about a year ago (I think) and is pretty clean but it hasn't seen much traffic. I climbed it last weekend and it was a great pitch. The approach is interesting too: Walk or climb to the top of GM/Heart of the Country. To the climber's right of the final set of anchors there is a red fixed rope. Follow this rope and some others up and to the climber's left. The trail branches at one point and leads to a large ledge under an overhang. Stick with the main trail and it will take you above the ledge and further left. You will pass a number of cracks that are recent first ascents, but keep going for the goods. 'Cream of the Country' is a right facing corner with a slabby start. You will find two bolts with chains at the base of the climb. One hanger might be missing, if so use a medium size stopper on the bolt. The direction of the climb is pretty obvious from here: one bolt off the deck, then into the crack above. The crux comes near the end of the route. Small cams are very useful. There are anchors at the top of the route. Once completed another route can be toproped from the same anchors. This route (12+) is an overhanging hand size crack to the left of 'Cream' and you will want tape if you plan on trying it. Unknown Getting there: Go to the right side of Earwax Wall and climb up and slightly right to a tree. The route: P1 Traverse up and right to another tree at the base of a crack. There are two loose but fairly stable blocks on this section. Climb the crack to a ledge. Move right, then scramble up to an anchor. (5.8/9?) This pitch needs additional cleaning. 100' P2 Just left of the anchor are two cracks. Start up the right hand crack and move left when the going gets difficult. (I’ve seen this done several ways) The pro is a bit funky here. Follow the crack for 100’+ to a ledge. First 20’ are still a bit scruffy. (5.10a?) 140' P3 Easy climbing up a gully ends with an awkward move to the right. A couple of easy moves leads to the top. (mid-fifth class) 50' Getting down: Rap or walk off. The Back Road route climbs the first 15’ of the second pitch and then takes the obvious hand traverse to the right. It is probably not a good route to try. Several other routes on the Upper Wall: LEAVENWORTH Routes near Clem's Holler - Tumwater Did a new top rope off the chains of Gun Show at Clems Holler. Quality.Probably at least 11d. try it! There is a new crag to the right of Clem's Holler on the way to the Nut House, Maple Heights. The route there is 5.9, a few bolts and gear to 2". (90' more or less). At the Nut House is a short new sport route, Pistachio Pillar, 5.10c/d, 6 or 7 clips. It follows the greenish rock to the left of State of Delusion. check em out. Big Ben Tower - Icicle Creek Approach: Big Ben Tower sits above and slightly East of Careno Crag, easily visible from Icicle Road. From the base of the Regular Route continue up a faint trail to the base of Exotic Dancer (has been retro cleaned!) Continue up and right along the base of a series of broken crags (some good short cracks and faces) to the base of Fishtoe. As the crags end, Big Ben becomes visible a short ways straight up. Aprox. 1 hr. The route: There are a number of crack systems (mostly short and wide) that lead to the top of the tower but the most stunning and obvious is the system on the left side of the South face. From the left toe of the tower climb mid fifth to a slab with an old 1/4" spinner, cross the short slab to a roof with a large chock stone blocking the entrance to a chimney. Grope, grovel, and grunt past the chock stone (5.10) to a good stance below the squeeze chimney. Climb chimney (5.8) and gain a perfect forty foot hand crack (5.8) to a ledge with a shrub. (We belayed here although it would be possible to continue through to the top.) From the shrub, continue up the hand crack to the summit.(5.8) Total length aprox. 180'. "Dribble" 5.8+ G/1" - B/3 RS/165' Dribble starts just right and slightly above The Dog Ate My Topo behind a large fire scorched tree. Route: Friction up to the first bolt located in a bulge on a smooth stretch of stone. Climb slightly left on good face holds and then back right over the top of the bolt to a short finger crack. Jam crack to an overlap leading to a large clean well featured slab. Climb slab using 2 bolts and small horizontals for protection, heading a bit left to a good stance and a two bolt anchor. Descent: Rappel from anchors to the ledge above The Dog Ate My Topo using caution it is more than 100' to the chains, but the station can be scrambled too easily. Rap to ground 100'. Note: The route was not cleaned, done on lead, and drilled by hand. Expect some dirt and 5/16" button head bolts. Anyone climb it late last year? Rating? Any quality what-so-ever? peckin' time - correction did this route and straight street on duty dome the other day and noticed the guidebook doesn't mention that you need a piece of gear after the last bolt (or 20+ feet runount on sandy rock. bring a 2" cam or so for the sandy crack. LITTLE SI Partial Topo of WW1: 38 Direct start to Namby Pamby 5.9 to the two bolts 10-B of the original Namby Pamby it now can be done seperatly from Lovey Dovey. Left of Rhino rave is a new steep overbolted rhino jug 5.8 Rhino Vista, First ascent, Rusty Smith,LUCKY The reason for so many bolts was the jugs are so huge and I was afraid of someone breaking a leg(clip'em or skip'em) and the first bolt is for the belayer to keep you on the ledge. Coming up the trail at the credit card thief sign turn right the, Wayout boulder, the problem from left to right 35ft traverse ending in tree root Yo Mama V-2 the problem is much harder on the way out, continue past boulder to, Outburst, 5 bolt 10-D with overhanging start MIDDLE FORK Frenchmen's Coulee New Riverview Park: left of Euphoric Nothingness, A new climb called: Quarryography 5.10-B going left at the top is off route 6 bolts To the left of Corroding Through Nocturnal silk, A new climb called: Dewclaw 5.11-B easier as a pink point 5 bolts To the left of Eye weighted hear butt Know won new Y a new climb called: Dakine 5.7 a short crack, gear: a few pieces to 1 inch, ring anchors To the right of Fur Elise, a new climb called: Shanked 5.10-C 6 bolts New Shunshine Wall: behind where Herm's tower once stood, which had the sport climb Positive Vibrations is a new climb called: Twin Towers 5.10-A, the tower is gone, but like the twin towers 9/11 it is not forgotton Start on the the crack splitting the face of the pedestal of the old tower, after gaining the top proceed across the top of the dirty base to the belay stance, two bolts lead to a crack separating two pillars 2/3 of the way up clip the chicken bolt, ring anchors at the top , FA, JY Edited March 2, 2004 by Peter_Puget
Recommended Posts