off_the_hook Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 This climb seems like it is very popular this year! A beautiful route as advertised and everything is still in good shape. The Z-man and I bivied up at the Sahale Moraine and enjoyed a nice evening and night under the stars. Woke up with the light to start the climbing. The Sahale/Boston traverse was awesome in the early morning light. It appears that the Boston Glacier has opened up more over the past couple weeks or even days, but nothing that is not easily navigable. We dropped down a little lower to avoid some crevasses. The bergshrund about a 1/3 up the north face is still navigable as well. The part right above the shrund seemed the most intense to me. The final part to the summit, while possibly a couple degrees steeper, was in the open so it didn't seem as bad. The snow was soft and crampons worked well on the slope. We didn't place any protection, but there were a couple spots where a picket or two might have been a good idea. The summit affords one of the best views I have ever seen with the sprawling Boston Glacier my favorite part. The traverse around Horseshoe basin was straightforward. We took the moat up the snow finger (snow in finger was very hard for some reason) and the beta from previous climbers was great putting us on the trail up the ridge to Sahale moraine. We reluctantly packed up and hiked down to the car exhausted. An awesome couple days in the North Cascades with a great partner! Quote
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