Kyes Peak TR

[off_the_hook]

Did Kyes Peak in Monte Cristo area on Tuesday. Another hot one, too hot for me! Anyways, went up through the Columbia Glacier and down the South Ridge route. Started at 8 am, arrived at Blanca at 9:30, summited at 12:30, chilled out for awhile, and then descended arriving at the car at 5 pm exhausted (9 hour total trip). After doing both, I can say that going down to the Columbia from the summit in the "break in the cliffs" seems kinda sketchy, especially if you didn't ascend that way (looks like it cliffs out from above). The gravel is very loose and there is some wet rock, ok for the ascent. The south ridge seemed straight forward. There is a climbers path that can be picked up through most of the ridge. Point 5845 can be avoided by traversing on the west side to avoid needless elevation gain. The final rock scramble to the 7227 ft summit seemed more intense than imagined, but that's the way a lota stuff goes. Filthy Virgin lake was acutally a pleasant site to see on the way down!

[catbirdseat]

Nice job. You did the route in good time.

 

Did you head up a really steep gully from the glacier? There is a quite safe way up to the South Ridge that is not at all risky either up or down. You climb under a waterfall and traverse right around a broad ridge, under a cliff and up broad snow slopes. I could show you better than I could tell you.

[off_the_hook]

Yeah I took the route you describe. I think the high amount of snowmelt on that hot day caused parts of the lower route to be slick. The upper part was easy with the broad snow slopes. A safe route either way, just seems more precarious going down.