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I posted this on the Fossil thread but thought it would be more useful here........

If you go to wilkeson, be sure to park at the OUTSIDE the gate just before the gravel pit. It can be locked and it would suck to be on the wrong side of it! Just walk 100 yards and then right through the pit and find the trail on the far side.

Don't underestimate this place, Most of the bolts are new and if you like slabby friction it rocks! The first slab you come to is for the most part pretty easy. The far right line has a cool mantle move, maybe .9 or so and there is a double bulge line smack in the middle of the slab that is really cool. It is only .5 if you go around the bulges but solid .9 or low 10 if you go direct. (Can we call it "Battle of the Bulge"??) The first line you see on the extreme left side of the slab I call "bulletholes" and is great fun, especially if you only use the holes and none of the flakes or crimps. (.7 with, .9+ without) There are a couple of lines on the far end that will make you think. (around .9+ or low .10) The last route just before the big overhang is quite thin and steep, I still have yet to get it. It might go around hard .11.

Actually I have never been there.........

Long live scabby knees!!!!!

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