TR: Stuart Glacier Couloir

[Ade]

Despite a crappy forecast The Simoan, visiting from the East Coast, insisted that we go climbing...

 

Cloud base on Stuart was 7-8000' all day with brisk winds from the North and occasional snow flurries. Cold for June. Poured with rain for most of the drive to Leavenworth and snowed for most of the approach.

 

Route in good shape, hard neve in couloir but the "crux" narrow section was very unconsolidated. Schrund cross straightforward. Stakes and rock gear offer best protection. West Ridge has some snow cover making climbing slower and route finding tricky especially with poor visibility.

 

Descended the Sherpa Glacier, schrund still easy to cross, large bridge right (east) of center.

 

Ice Cliff Glacier also looked pretty good from below. Some stuff carving off late afternoon and evening from the right side.

 

All in all very "Scottish". Good weather by Cairngorm standards.

 

Tip Tips:

• 
  
• Don't forget the brews. Hot water on it's own is very boring after the second mug and adding Gu doesn't give it any flavor.
  
• Don't drop the bog roll. The snow is way crunchy this time of year for that sort of thing.
  
• Don't leave your fleece on the route - see Lost and Found.
  

 

Ade