North Sister Conditions

[shaggy]

Climbed North Sister on June 8. Hiked in Pole Creek on Saturday. Camped at about 7,500 feet just east of the SE Spur. Nice camp, access to water and plenty of flat ground.

Started at about 3am up the SE Spur. Fair bit of scrambling and steep snow with some nice exposure. Went over Camel's Hump and down to join South Ridge route. Up gully and across traverse on the west side of the pinnacle block.

The Bowling Alley is compacted rime ice and hard snow. Would the ice screws have held? Beats me, I'm just glad I didn't need to find out.

Free climbed north pinnacle and rappelled down. Got 9 on the summit. Started down from summit at 11am. The traverse was in the sun by 12:30 and softened quickly. I wouldn't recommend it much later than that.

Rappelled down the gully and descended via the South Ridge. Dropped off it to the east and traversed beneath the SE Spur back to camp. That traverse sucked, all jumbled scree. Real ankle-breaker stuff, but it was probably the best route.

Really fun climb, but I'm not sure when I'll do it again.

[BandedGlacier]

OK....so what kind of conditions should I expect in the coming weeks, snow level at what...around 4,000 4,500 ft? Is the PCT in good condition? Im looking for a trail head south of moraine lake...looking to hit the south and middle sisters by means of the PCT? Can you give any report of conditions around the Linton meadows, Obsidan falls area?

[shaggy]

Since rte. 242 isn't open yet (check ODOT website for updates), your best access to the PCT is from Devil's Lake TH and head west.

We ran into snow around 6,000 feet when we came in from Pole Creek. Looking down on the west side of North Sister, I couldn't see a trail, so I assume that the PCT was under it somewhere. Since both Linto Meadows and Obsidian Falls are over 6,000 feet, I would assume that you'll be in snow hiking through the PCT there. I doubt that you would need snowshoes, but they would keep your feet drier.

Good Luck