Mt. Washington East Ridge TR

[Flying_Ned]

3 of climbed the East Ridge Route yesterday, on the hottest, buggyest day of the year. The route is in excellent shape, and we had major good time. Here's the TR:

The washout just beyond the route 1 trailhead has been repaired so parking near the Jefferson Pass trailhead is possible. The trail to the pass is completely clear of blowdowns, etc. The climbers track is well defined, though you may have to poke around in a few places before reaching the rocks. Once the ridge is gained, the route is fairly straightforward with very few class 4 moves. At the obvious impasse, descend 50 feet and countour S to the snowfield at the base the coulior leading back to the ridge. Here you have choice--dicey moted traverse to steep NW snowfields, or sustained class 4 exposure for 700 feet (the top of Washington's head) to the snow on the forehead. We made a rising westerly traverse over good rock, working back SE from the W corner. Small ledges, good finger holds and some knarled trees get you over this section. Though a fall on the cliff would be deadly, protecting it is difficult. Don't take a novice or anyone uncomfortable with exposure on this route. Once we topped out it was an easy traverse over steep snow to the nose. A quick rappel back to the ridge leads to ledges below and East of the summit, from where it's a short scramble.

 

This was a long day for us. It was hot, and we took many breaks, eventually taking approx 7 hours from car to summit. We descended route one, and found that no one else had been on the mountain yesterday--which seemed unusual for such a fine day. Met two guys doing a sunset climb of route 1 on our decent of same. Short walk on the road back to truck lead to some precious and cold beer--9 hours from our departure.

 

I highly recommend this route for a great mixed climb. We had an Olympic rookie with us and his eyes were poppin', but he did an excellent job and never got himself into trouble.

[Norman_Clyde]

Cool!