[TR] Mt. Redoubt/Spickard (Aug. 9 - 13) - S. Ridge / S.Face 08/09/2018

[AOC]

Trip: Mt. Redoubt/Spickard (Aug. 9 - 13) - S. Ridge / S.Face

Trip Date: 08/09/2018

Trip Report:

 

We climbed the standard routes on Spickard and Redoubt from Aug. 9 - 13.  Weather and late season scree curtailed bigger ambitions to climb the Mox peaks and visit the Silver Lake basin.  The Chilliwack River Rd. lived up to its 15 mph potholed reputation.  But we made it to the lower parking area without too much trouble in a rental Rav4 with AWD.  There is a fair amount of blowdown just beyond the border as you enter the park, which prevented us from gaining a real head of steam on the approach.  And Depot Creek Falls was running strong.  Knotted guide ropes were critical to climbing the short, slippery stretch where the climber's trail intersects the falls.  Thanks to whomever placed these ropes. (Mountaineers?)  We actually rappelled this stretch on the way down.  It was that slick.  

We climbed Spickard by GPS on a day with visibility of perhaps 100 yards.  But the skies cleared momentarily on the way down and we got a clear view of Luna Peak and the Pickets before descending to our scenic camp at Ouzel Lake.  The day was clear as we headed up Redoubt but smoke obscured views of more distant peaks.  Climbing was straightforward.  We brought a rope for possible 5th class terrain crossing over the Redoubt Glacier to the south side basin.  But the snow level was high enough that moving through the pass involved only a short 4th class scramble.  The cannon hole near the summit is a cool feature that can be seen from Ouzel Lake.  As you move thorough it the terrain drops off abruptly thousands of feet to the north side glacier.   

We were the only party up there - the summit register on Spickard indicated only 8 or 9 parties this season.  The place is certainly remote.  Later, we drove  to Chelan and rode the ferry to Stehekin on the worst smoke-filled day I've seen in the N. Cascades.  Half the time the shoreline was not visible.  Luckily, the skies cleared a bit when we climbed Mt. Logan the next day via the Fremont Glacier.  18 miles and 7K elevation gain.  Another remote location in my favorite range in the lower 48!    

Gear Notes:
Rope for short rappels on Redoubt - Depot Creek Falls

Approach Notes:
Depot Creek

Edited August 28, 2018 by AOC