Thanks for the response and insight.
This kind of highlights the wide range of information available on the internet. Some people rate the DC route as quite basic (a long, cold, walk to the top with crampons on your boots and an ice axe held in your hand). On the other end of the spectrum, there are people that make it out to be a harrowing journey requiring years of polished skill and a strong stomach for near death experiences.
i imagine it’s probably a lot like alpine climbs on other mountains and whitewater; If everything goes as planned (and you’re too inexperienced to know how lucky you got) it probably does seem simple. However, I’ve seen enough stuff and lived through enough misadventures to understand the value of skills and experience on every backcountry outing. When things don’t go perfect, a situation can progress towards a calamity very quickly if you don’t have skills and experience.
so, specific glacier travel skills and experience. That’s what I lack. And that’s what I’m not willing to go without. Rope management I can do. Anchors I can do. Haul systems and rope ascending I can do. But there’s a lot more skill and experience beyond that. I want that real skill and experience to be present on climbs I’m apart of.
id consider myself a good group member or climbing partner for someone who has those skills and experiences and therefore I can rely upon their judgement. I’m a quick study and I know how to put in the work to be a great team member /partner.
fwiw, I’ve been in contact with RMI. They recommended I take their skills seminar and consider going up the Klautz glacier route with them (all as one long week adventure with them). Obviously, they have a system in place and a product to sell. So I’m not surprised by their recommendation. I’m sure it’s a fine way to go and the best option from their perspective. I’ve also spoken with a guide school here in the Wasatch. No glaciers here, just spring snow slope conditions. They recommended I take their weekend course, and then do something like my baker or my hood before I try Rainier. Again, that’s their perspective.
I’m interested in the combined perspective and recommendations found here.
Thanks again!
