Keith Picket

That's a great write-up, thank you. I wrote the prior TR you referenced and was up there a couple weeks before you. Everything you reported feels accurate to me. My partner and I were perhaps more affected by the height-dependent nature of the path you took leaving the belay. We could not picture the lateral exit moves you describe so my partner Kirk charged straight up a partially imagined crack system with a lovely vertical alpine garden. He found no pro but charged on regardless, traversing right after about 15-20 feet. There is probable some gear options with a bit more excavation. It felt like 5.8 maybe but I am out of shape so maybe not that hard.

Well said, Jason. Darin has done enough on either side of Headlee Pass! We cleaned a little as we went but I think Kirk and I both were too preoccupied with not falling to do a decent job. I don't think it would be a ton of work, though.

Major rockfall recently on Ragged Edge. My friend Kirk and I climbed the route on 9/24/24 (tuesday) The mid-upper part of the route are altered significantly. I copied this from Cascade Mountain Ascents - it is accurate. 🔹A large amount of rock fell from the “edge” of the main slab, right where it becomes more of a roof (which the 5th pitch traverses above). 🔹The last 10-15 feet of the 4th pitch are now more difficult and the protection opportunities are limited. These moves are hard to protect for the second as they make the final moves to the belay and a fall for a follower here would likely involve swinging out into space. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ 🔹The belay at the top of the 4th pitch is now hanging, and the bolts are only ~4ft above the edge of the new section of roof. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ 🔹The beginning of the 5th pitch now sports a wide step-across move to small footholds, although the hands on either end of the span are good. This move is rather height/flexibility dependent. The main challenge with the route now is the final part of the 4th pitch and the initial lead from that anchor. Both are loose, dirty and poorly protected. The first part of the fifth pitch is impossible to protect for the first 20-25 feet and the first 15-20 feet are directly above the bolted anchor and the belayer. Kirk managed a really heady lead there. It would be hard for the belayer to avoid a falling climber there, and a fall anywhere after the first 5 feet would result in a significant sling into the wall since the wall is overhanging there now. Rappelling from there would be super sketch since you would likely be obliged to go right through where the rockfall occurred and there is now still a fair bit of loose rock and blocks. The photos below show me at the belay at the end of the 4th pitch. All the rock just below my feet is now gone. That section felt really hard for both of us but a lot of that was uncertainty of the holds and a fair bit of vegetation. I think it could remain 5.7 with some cleaning. If after that there is still no gear then a bolt or two might be nice. We heard a TON of rockfall on nearby cliffs. Be careful if you go up there.