Anton Koveza

On gib ledges above the head it was frozen, run down ice - thick. That i can see sticking around for few weeks. I hope snow coming down today will deposit to add thickness to snow at climbers feet - that is was getting this in most exposed locations.

Hello climbing community! Three of us climbed Rainier this past weekend via Gib Ledges on ascent and Ingraham Direct on descent. Gib Ledges were in good condition - adequate snow; however, in few spots with exposure snow cover is thinning out. Hopefully this weekend will supplement what is there. On Ingraham Direct I counted seven crevasses that we crossed - stepped over, with bigger one of them 2 feet wide. This route will be intact for a while. Above 12500, crevasses are well filled in, making for direct climb up. Besides our team, this past weekend another two groups of two on skis summitted. Good luck!

Quick report from out climb 5/6-5/7 via Triple Couloirs. Runnels are thin ice. We did them into 60m rope lengths. First rope still has some ice, but starting to thin out. Second rope had running water at 7 am and pretty much no ice. We had to dry tool and rock climb through it. Did not see any protection options for 20-30 feet on that 2nd rope. Otherwise snow was in great condition; however, one has to note that 5 am temp at the lake was ~26F. Below is first rope length on the runnels. There was another team of two on the route, in the image, who were our friends and very careful to not release rocks. They were pretty good, except for few small ice pieces. However, rock hazard is high on the route, especially with thinning runnels, indicating late season for this route. Rock on this route becomes flaky with less ice to hold it together. Glad to see this release after someone walked on it. My assessment of root cause is "gravel" layer 5 feet down, which released with warmer weather. Hopefully this released weekend of 4/28-29, when it very warm and no one would think to climb this route.

Thanks DPS! "runnels look quite fat" is encouraging. We will post pics and debrief.

My buddy and I are preparing to attempt to climb Triple Couloir on Dragontail in the coming days. Has any been out there recently? Did 7601 road melt out? Any pictures of the north face of the mountain that you could share? Thank you in advance!