jimmyconducive

Hey Ian, yep, we made it up there yesterday. A hot damn day, but it was in the shade for the climb and good purchase on the snow, especially up high. The whipping wind the night before added a decent hard crust. We had multiple smaller transitions onto rock. The route was real thin going up that left side to the constriction point. The move over to the rock to the left at that constriction point wasn't bad, but absolutely thin and spicy. We were roped up, but placed no pickets or pro and we didn't see the point because we didn't think the snow would hold us anyways. Being roped up past that first bergshrund seemed moot, but we left it on the whole climb and to save one of us from carrying all the rope (and we wanted to just keep moving fast without the time spent coiling). That route is only going to get spicier through that bottom portion, especially with the recent heatwave. Our advice to our friends is to wait until next year.

Hey Ian, what were the appx temps heading up, then back down? Just gauging what you were on to what we're expecting the next couple of days.